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Day 21: The American West Begins with White Sands National Park

Our White Christmas

“Drifting across the vast space, silent except for wind and footsteps, I felt uncluttered and unhurried for the first time in a while, already on desert time.”
~ Rebecca Solnit, Wanderlust: A History of Walking

To borrow from Dr. Seuss, with a ‘tense’ twist, “Oh, the places we’ve been!”

This was always the plan—to reach the seemingly never-ending waves of the gypsum dunes of White Sands National Park for our version of a white Christmas. Little did I know when we set out how much would have happened before arriving.

The first three weeks were supposed to be a simple tour of a few unseen national parks with a sprinkling of pilgrimages to the graves and homes of some of America’s most influential authors, artists, and musicians. Most of those came as expected, but what was surprising were the waves of emotions sweeping over me away at various times. Then, there were the quirky bits of synchronicity offering glimpses of magic and mystery.

Sunrise can turn these pure white dunes—and Samwise’s light, blonde hair—a flaming gold.

The challenge is to make each annual trip unique. Through planning and happenstance (or fate), I’ve been left dizzy by the range and depth of my experiences and emotions as I’ve danced with ghosts for the past 5,500 miles. Some of these spirits were expected, and others came upon me like a tidal wave. All remain with us.

There has been laughter, wonder, anger, tears, enlightenment, and education. The confluence has made this more of a quest than a road trip.

Amid some pretty heavy stuff learned along the way, all three of us were pulled off center. I witnessed Samwise and Emily acting differently than they have all the years I’ve known them. I suffered a fall, which could have been much worse than what it was. I don’t doubt the weight of a couple of days had me losing my balance. I smashed my neck, broke a finger, probably some ribs (by the feel of them), sprained my wrist, gushed blood, scraped both knees, and found myself lying on the cool earth, trying to catch my breath while Samwise and Emily loomed over me. It was 2 am, and a possum watched all this play out.

We were up and at ’em before dawn the next day, even as I limped through the first hours and scrambled in and out of the HMS Beagle. However, all physical pain left me as I drank in our surroundings and contemplated the history of the region we explored.

I’m feeling well enough that we walked four miles over the dunes at sunrise and will return for another four at sunset. This is a good day—and this trip has been one for the history books.

I’ll be able to tell you these stories now that we’ve reached the desert. Tomorrow, we’ll settle in for our first extended stop.

Anyone up for cathedrals of saguaro souls, marauding bands of javelinas, choirs of song dogs serenading us through miles of hiking trails, and sunrises sure to lift the soul? The Sonoran Desert awaits, and we’re leaving hotel living behind, and settling into a rental for a few weeks. It has a deep bathtub, a full kitchen, and a fenced yard—that sounds like paradise to me. It’s close to three Whole Foods Markets, two Trader Joe’s, and some of our favorite hiking trails. On top of that, we’ll get to relax and breathe and cook and write and, yes, soak!

Once ensconced, I’ll catch you up on what has been moving and magical about the first three weeks.

And to think there are still four months left!

We usually do not settle into the Sonoran Desert until later, but I’m excited to switch things up this year.

A Note About the Video

I often record video greetings for my friends when out walking. In the past, when I’ve shared these personalized messages with you, I’ve covered my words with music. Today, you’ll hear my words in one of the clips. I was sending a video to an artist friend and her partner. I see no reason to cover them up.

End-of-Year Sale: 20% Off All Annual Subscriptions

Now’s the perfect time to send that late Christmas or current Hanukkah gift by buying a subscription for the reader, dog lover, and traveler in your life. All subscriptions are 20% off during the sale. As always, half of the proceeds raised will go to animal non-profits.

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This goes to all free readers as well. If you’ve considered upgrading, now is the perfect time. By moving to a paid subscription, you won’t miss any of this trip, and instead of getting two or three monthly updates, you’ll receive a dozen—twenty when we are traveling. You’ll save 20% off an annual subscription, know that some of the money is going to animal rescue, and you’ll have plenty to read this winter.

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Happy Hanukkah!